Are there a lot of fearful dogs out there or am I just noticing them more? Since Sunny landed in our living room, and settled into the corner, my “shy dog radar” seems to have been fine tuned.

At the pet shop recently a young woman was browsing the dog treat section, her black and white dog, a young adult, was doing the same. When I turned to speak to the woman, making small talk about “kids in candy stores” her dog took one look at me, ducked his head and stepped back, his eyes locked on my face. I’d seen that look enough to know that I should not return the stare and immediately turned my head. The dog resumed his sniffing of the various dried, animal body parts available to him.

“A bit shy isn’t he?”, I remarked.

“Oh he scares himself,” his owner replied, “Someone looks at him and he looks back and gets scared and starts barking.”

I tried to follow her line of reasoning (he scares himself?), but knew better than to spend too much energy on the task. The list of explanations that owners make regarding why their fearful dog behaves the way it does, and why the owner responds the way s/he does, is long, and might be funny, except that dogs are suffering.

While researchers and scientists may not agree on how animals experience emotion or which emotions those might be, it is accepted that dogs feel fear. Not only is fear biologically advantageous (do something or die), dogs that are afraid behave in ways that look a lot like the ways humans behave when we’re afraid.  We startle, we cringe, we turn away, we run, we scream, we shake- you get the picture.

When I was seven years old I jumped off of a high diving board for the first time. My family was on holiday and the hotel we were staying at had a pool. I watched other kids climb up the ladder, walk out to the edge of the board, leap off into space and plunge into the water below. My father asked me if I wanted to try it. Together we climbed up the ladder and as soon as I got to the top I turned and headed back down, weaving past the line of kids following us up for their turn. My father did not force me to continue.

Back in the pool I watched the other children jumping off and again my father encouraged me to give it a try. This time he said he’d stay in the pool and get to me after I splashed down. For some reason this made me feel more inclined to try it, so again I climbed the ladder, got to the top, walked out to the end of the board and lept off, keeping my eyes on my father in the water below. I wasn’t in the water for more than a few seconds before I felt his hands on me, giving me support while I caught my breath from the excitement of it all. From that day on I have been a fan of jumping off high diving boards, rope swings, boats, ledges you name it, so long as I’m going to land in deep water.

I don’t share this story just to fill you in on my personal recreation habits or my childhood, but because it is full of lessons on how to work with a fearful dog. Two important components of this scenario which are applicable to the work we do with our scared dogs are these-

1. I had a trusting relationship with my father.
2. I had the skills needed to succeed at the task.

The person encouraging me to do something that scared me was my father. I trusted him. Believe me if a stranger had offered to take my hand and lead me up that ladder I would have been wide-eyed in terror, I might have even reacted the same way if it was my older brother. My father said I’d be alright and I believed him. He was not in the habit of putting me in dangerous situations and I trusted his ability to protect me from anything, in the way that only little girls can (and probably should) feel about their fathers. He had taught me how to swim and for years I had been jumping off the docks and piers a few feet above the surface of a lake where we spent our summers. I had the skills and experience to climb that ladder and launch myself into the deep end of a pool, I just hadn’t done it before.

Stand a 6 month old baby on their feet and let go of them and they don’t start walking, they fall down. Their brains have not developed the intricate and remarkable circuitry to control their movement and their bodies don’t have the physical strength. Someday though they’ll be able to, unless they never get the chance to practice (or have a physical or mental disability). Many dogs, especially puppy mill and pet shop dogs don’t get the chance to practice the skills necessary in order for them to be able to handle the social interactions, the delicate balance of acting and reacting, that a pet owner expects of them.

Some of them, with gentle guidance and coaching, in the hands of someone they trust, will be able to catch up and learn to enjoy being around the things that once made them uncomfortable (or flat out horrified them) but others will not, not ever. The damage was done, there’s no making up or repairing some brain development. All may not be lost, but for the average pet owner a dog like this is never going to be the dog of their dreams (unless they’ve dreamt of having a dog that prefers to live in the closet).

We humans tend to be an impatient bunch and rather than proceed slowly with our dogs, keep trying to make them stand up when all that happens is that they topple over, again and again. Some dogs will begin to actively resist our efforts, growling or snapping, others will give up. Though they may comply with what they are being forced to do, they are not enjoying it. And they are establishing negative associations with the experience, and the human forcing them into it.

It is possible to change how a dog feels and behaves around the things that scare them. And even a dog that isn’t exactly the dog of someone’s dreams can have a good life and provide their owner with companionship and joy. But making this happen usually means changing how we think about our scared dogs. It means questioning the things we’ve been told about dogs and how they learn new skills. It means that we stop tossing them off the high board and into the deep end and expect them to thank us for it.

Why does your dog chew everything?  There isn’t a single answer to that question.  Dogs chew for a variety of reasons.  Some just seem have an an inborn need to chew. They find it pleasurable.  Others seem to chew only if they are bored.

Is there a difference between “Chewing” and “Destructive Chewing”?  I suppose it’s up to the beholder.  When you get right down to it, chewing is destructive by its very nature!

Your dog has strong jaws full of sharp, pointy teeth.  Puppies especially have very sharp teeth, and a strong chewing instinct.  Just about anything your dog starts to chew on is probably going to show the effects of it inside of a minute.

As a point of clarification, when we say “destructive chewing” we usually mean “inappropriate chewing”.  You know, chewing up your possessions, your furniture, your shoes, as opposed to chewing on designated toys and dog chews.

3 Main Reasons Dogs Chew

There are three main reasons why dogs chew:

• Chewing is a natural desire. It’s fun, it passes the time, and it’s a self-rewarding, self-reinforcing activity.  As example would be chewing on something that tastes good.

• Chewing is an outlet — especially for a nervous, bored, or lonely dog. The repetitive act of chewing is actually quite soothing to your dog.  It’s the doggie equivalent of comfort food.

• Chewing burns up nervous energy and gives your dog something to do. This is especially true in the case of dogs who don’t get enough exercise.

How To Stop the Chewing of Household Items

So, how do you keep your dog from chewing up your prized possessions?   The secret to that burning question is in the list of reasons why your dog chews in the first place!  Here are three tips:

• Give your dog something tasty to chew on.

• Make sure your dog has other activities, or playmates, to help prevent boredom.  Dogs will usually chew when they are left alone, or when you are sleeping or otherwise ignoring them.

• See to it that your dog gets plenty of exercise to burn off that energy.  If your dog is exercised properly, chances are he will be tired and ready for a nap rather than ready to chew up everything in sight!

Act Early to Stop Puppy Chewing

Of course, one final word of advice:  If you can’t lock your prized possessions safely away from your dog, then confine your dog when you cannot watch her.  It isn’t good for you, your things, or your dog to launch into punishment mode when the situation could have — and should have — been avoided in the first place.

In order to stay on friendly terms with “man’s best friend” take the upper hand early on.  Your dog looks to you for guidance and leadership.  Preventing your dog from chewing up your things in the first place is your best bet.  It’s easier to prevent the habit in the first place than it is to break it later.

It’s important to know what you’re getting into when you adopt a dog. Costs vary a lot depending on your location, what size/type of dog you have, the dog’s individual needs, etc.

The consensus when asked how much a dog costs per year is somewhere around $1000-1500. Some areas of the country/world have higher/lower vet costs, and many expenses are discretionary. Very active/athletic/high-energy dogs will cost more for any number of reasons.

A typical but minor emergency vet visit (dog ate something he shouldn’t have, allergic reaction to a bite or something ingested, cuts or minor injuries, etc.) in my area will usually run $200-600, depending on tests. Things like these will happen.

A serious injury, planned surgery, significant illness, etc. can be $2000 and up.

Plan and be prepared for the higher range of expenses so you’re not left scrambling and resentful when something comes up

How Much Does a Dachshund Cost Per Year?

I can speak with experience about having a dachshund. My wire haired pointer is still pretty much a puppy, so the jury is still out on her.

I used to have is a 16 lbs. dachshund who was extremely tough on toys and got bored with the few he didn’t destroy.  He also took a lot of training (which means a lot of treats) and had seasonal allergies. His budget looked something like this:

• license: $20 per year.
• food: $13 per month.
• treats: $15-$25 per month.
• chews [predominantly bully sticks]: $20-$40 per month.
• toys: $25-$75 per month.
• poop bags: $20-$30 per year.
• flea/tick/heartworm prevention: $125-$150 per year.
• annual exam: $40.
• vaccinations: $100-$200 depending on what he’s due for that year, if anything.
• cytopoint injections: $100 per visit [exam fee plus medication cost], currently planning for every six weeks during the spring/summer/fall but may be more or less frequent.
• irregular vet costs such as bloodwork before beginning new medication, emergency visits [he’s been attacked by other dogs], etc, have typically ranged from $300 to $800. we haven’t had any major medical emergencies/surgeries/etc.
• irregular minor costs like new harnesses/collars/leashes/tags, sweaters/coats, beds, shampoo/conditioner, etc, usually add at least another $100 to the yearly total.
• irregular not-so-minor purchases, like his fitbark and cleverpet, have added another $400 or so to the last couple of years combined.
• regular costs that don’t usually stand out can can easily add another couple hundred to the yearly total. for example, gas and parking to take him for walks in various parks, typically within a 30 minute drive from home, to keep things interesting for him.

So on our average he was at least $1000/year, with some years being upwards of $2000.  Dachshunds are much smaller than many breeds, and things like vet costs may vary based on location.

How Much Does a Big Dog Cost Per Year?

Ignoring all the vaccines you will have to pay for the first year, and their reminders, and all the one time purchases (crate, bed, initial health check ups, name tags, license fee, dog sitter for vacation) here is the monthly breakdown for a big dog:

• Food: $800. $50 – 70 a month sounds like a lot to me but I’m told it’s typical for a big dog.
• Vet visit fee: $65 (this is just a fee that you pay to the vet every time you go, and you pay for medication on top of this)
• Heart worm: $15
• Flea and ticks: $10
• Classes: $120 since I go to two clubs — these are drop in rates for advanced classes at both, basic obedience classes are a bit more pricey. Yearly member ship fee at clubs: $100
• Treats: varies, but about $130-$200
• Toys or new leashes: $80 but varies
• Books (If a first time owner): $25
• Online classes: $65 per class, but each class lasts a few months
• Grooming: varies, but roughly $75 every few months. If you have a longer haired dog and fancier poodle it can go up to $200, and you may need a mutli-day appointment for very elaborate hairstyles. We do a basic puppy cut so it’s cheaper.
• Chews: $20-30
• Insurance: $30-40
• Dog sitter: $45

Expect to spend at least $1,500 for a big dog each year.

Choosing a puppy can be a challenge.  It’s even more difficult for a first-time dog owner. What type of puppy should you get?  Well it depends on your circumstance and living conditions.  The best advice is to probably go off of personality and gender! But based on looks only if go with the right one ? what are the sexes?

Hopefully you have a breeder that has been observing the puppies you are thinking of and can give you a better idea of which would be the best lifestyle fit. You should talk to some reputable breeders about the breed and their dogs, and you should actually spend some time with several before deciding they are absolutely the right breed for you.

Don’t Go for a Challenge

I’ve heard some people want a challenge with their dogs?  I can’t think of anything worse. I think the problem with wanting a challenge is that you don’t know what a challenge is. Even raising an “easy” beginner breed, like a lab, golden, or poodle, can/is a challenge if you’ve never raised a puppy before by yourself.

My Experience with Shibas

It’s one of the big things Caesar Milan pushes with regards to puppy selection. In the litter I chose from (6 Shibas) certain ones demonstrated much more intense alpha behavior and were clearly more dominant and strong minded. I chose a more passive submissive pup who showed more interest in human visitors and it really paid off. I see his siblings at puppy obedience classes several of us registered in and the more aggressive ones haven’t changed much in their first 6-months of life.

Shibas Are Not a Biddable Breed

The problem with dogs like Shibas is that they’re not a biddable breed. Biddability in dogs refers to the desire to listen and follow commands; it’s easy to teach them things because they want to do what you ask. Biddable breeds are things like Labs, Borders, Goldens, etc, which is why Labs are a classic first-time dog.

The reason why biddability in dogs is so important for first time dog owners is because they don’t tend to have a whole lot of experience working with dogs who, to be frank, don’t give a rats ass what you want. Every dog can be motivated by something, but “stubborn” breeds can be frustrating and discouraging for first time owners.

I own a breed that’s a step or two below a Lab or Border when it comes to biddability. I know what motivates him, but he can absolutely be frustrating when he just decides “today this other thing is more valuable to me”. Sometimes he goes nuts for Milkbones and other times he finds something else more exciting. I love the challenge though and I’m okay with owning a “stubborn” breed (Rottweiler).

So Glad I Chose a Calm Shiba

I think I’m a calm person so I chose a calm Shiba. I will say especially with shibas, just because they aren’t upfront with people doesn’t mean they’re bad tempered.

Mine was very timid for like the first year I had her (and it took a lot of frustrating socialization) but now she’s very friendly, and she loves kids, cats, and other dogs. But she is/was very much cat like, very independent, but loooooooves people. But kinda like a cat, she only wants to be pet when she wants pets, but boy can she snuggle. She’s so much different now than as that shy scared little pup.

But she’s also sooo submissive which is 100% most important thing imo. Mine is so submissive she’s literally been attacked at the dog park (ran in and scooped her up right away) and didn’t fight back, which having known that it makes me much more comfortable with her meeting other dogs, because I know I can protect her if need be, and don’t need to worry about her starting anything and getting sued.

Granted, my happiness with having an approachable/non aggressive shiba is just based on hearing from everyone and their brother about how aggressive shibas can be (of the 4 shibas that go to my vet, mines the only one they don’t muzzle). However, I’ve personally not met a mean shiba nor seen a tale of an aggressive shiba.

Also, like I mentioned, training a regular old dog breed that is biddable and a people pleaser is tough. Doing so with a shibe is tougher because even puppy Shibes aren’t really interested in people that much. Training is very hard-you’re dealing with a dog that isn’t really motivated to listen, or to get attention or pets, and a lot of Shibes I’ve met aren’t even particularly toy motivated.

It is hard to find the best self cleaning litter box for multiple cats. There are just too many choices on the market. Shopping for one is easier if you know what to look for in a litter box. Below are some of the factors you need to consider when buying a box for multiple cats.

What Is the Best Self Cleaning Litter Box for Multiple Cats that You Should Use?

The best self cleaning litter box for multiple cats is something that is invisible. Your cats will go inside it and reappear clean. It must not emit any odor and no need to replace or freshen up the box. The built-in cleaning mechanism will male removing waste easier and improve the lifespan of the litter.

A self-cleaning litter box has enough space for your cats to move around inside it. The litter box also saves you time and effort, especially when your daily commute from work is long. However, keep in mind that even with the best self cleaning litter box for multiple cats your pet might not want to use it.

Cats can be fussy when it comes to litter boxes. It must be the right style and size. Cats go through stages in their life, and their preferences and ability to use the litter box can change.

How Many Litter Boxes Do You Need?

Cats are not pack animals like dogs. Even if they are siblings from the same litter, there are times when a cat wants its own space. In some instances, sharing the same litter box can be stressful. If you have many kittens, buy a litter box for multiple cats. It is the most practical solution unless you are willing to buy one litter box for each cat you own. Keep in mind that if you opt for one box for each cat, you need to have one extra box.

Why Buy a Self Cleaning Litter Box?

A self-cleaning litter box is the better choice over a manual cat litter box because you don’t need to clean the former manually. Although self-cleaning boxes are more expensive, it requires less effort from you.

Choosing the right litter box can be overwhelming. If you are tired of cleaning up after your cats do their thing, then choose an automated litter box for multiple cats. It provides great convenience for you. Your days of scoping up used litter after your cat uses the box is over.

The odor is also eliminated when you use a self-cleaning litter box. Not scoping the litter after your cats do their thing can result in a smelly home. With the use of an automated litter box, you will no longer have trouble cleaning multiple boxes.

The best self cleaning box for multiple cats is the best investment you can get for your pets. It cleans up after your cats’ visits to the box, no matter what time of the day. It saves you time, and your home will smell fresh.

We do so much for our dogs. We go over nourishment decisions and house preparing. We additionally examine essentials of dog behavior socialization. Our proprietors are urged to enlist in puppy classes and possibly other classes too. However, is it enough?

With regards to socialization, the appropriate response is no. Building up a sound, balanced canine is long haul duty.

Are there consummate canines? Are a few mutts conceived unsocial? Much like individuals, puppies are conceived with inclinations for modesty, reactivity, fear and different characteristics. In any case, even as well as can be expected be enhanced and inadequately mingled mutts are not generally an acts of futility. Support can impact nature. That is the reason cautious, progressing socialization is so imperative.

Socialization starts the minute a puppy is conceived. Littermate cooperation shows canine social aptitudes while taking care of and controlled presentation to worry by an educated reproducer helps make puppies considerably more steady and usual to human communication.

Essentials of Dog Behavior Socialization

Puppies need to see the same number of various sorts, races and times of individuals as could be expected under the circumstances. They should be uncovered a wide assortment of items as well. Show them everything from umbrellas to caps to autos, ringers, domesticated animals and bunnies. Try not to put the pooch away when there is organization. Have them meet everybody except attempt to keep it as nonfrightening as would be prudent.

When it’s in a protected environment, puppies truly need to meet different species of animals.  This is especially true for dogs that aren’t low maintenance.  Felines, rabbits, rats, steeds, llamas and everything else that is not toxic. Make sure regulate to protect collaborations yet new should things as much as possible.

Keep in mind, that regardless of the possibility that your pooch did well as a puppy they can create issues as a youthful grown-up on the off chance that they wind up bound to the lawn at 5 months. A balanced canine needs proceeded with treks to pooch parks, day camps and extra preparing. In the event that you walk your canine, take a stab at taking an alternate course inevitably. Bring along a sack of treats and have accommodating souls bolster your canine so new individuals are related with great things.

Puppy Camps

Regardless of the possibility that your canine doesn’t go to camp, convey them with you to get nourishment or medicines. They appreciate seeing us when we give them a treat rather than an inoculation.

Keep in mind your response can impact any canine to canine meeting. Kindly, don’t give the finish of a tight chain a chance to be the way you acquaint your pet with different creatures. Take a stab at utilizing a head strap (Gentle Leader) rather than a normal neckline amid strolls. They demoralize stressing forward which can prompt fervor and forceful conduct.

Have Patience

In the event that your canine barks or snarls, don’t rebuff them. It’s not the apocalypse. Get some separation from the other pooch and occupy yours with a treat. Whenever may go better. It can require investment. Keep in mind that regardless of the possibility that all of you accomplish is a pooch who can pass another creature and disregard them that is as yet incredible!

On the off chance that your pooch can do well at the puppy stop or day camp, far better. Simply ensure you utilize a camp that disposition tests and gatherings mutts by action level and friendliness.

At last, before you bring home another puppy, investigate breeds and what their unique utilize was. Look into breed qualities with your identity and way of life. Perceive that there are varieties inside the breeds. There are forceful Golden Retrievers and there are spook breeds that affection each and every animal, directly down to small hamsters. Keep in mind to take a gander at who you get your pup from. Puppy plants don’t mingle.

So imagine a scenario where you do everything right and your pooch still moves toward becoming, dreadful, forceful or excessively on edge. It’s not sad. Counsel with your veterinarian and have them suggest a prepared dog behaviorist who can enable you to accomplish a more advantageous pet.